Craft beer in supermarkets: the race to the bottom continues
In the nineteenth century there was something known as the slop trade. Items such as shoes and clothes were made cheaply by cheap labour to undercut very similar but more expensive products.
The trend was addressed in two ways. Workers unionised to try and drive out cheap labour, while employers sought to corner the market and drive out competition.
The trend continues of course with supermarket own brands being cheaper than branded goods but also perhaps slightly less good quality.
Craft beer, particularly with the arrival of cans has become an increasingly familiar feature on supermarket shelves with outcries each time a well-known craft brand appears on the shelves. Bottle shops rightly note their business is being damaged while those many on low wages can find decent beer at an affordable price. There is more than one side to every story.
The difference with the wider market is that the beers on offer cheaply in supermarkets are not inferior quality. The four packs of Thornbridge Jaipur that Tesco sells for £6 are both excellent value and excellent beer.
It was only a matter of time of course before the leading undercutter Lidl got in on the act. Previously they have sold anonymous ‘craft’ beer cans. Now they have announced a craft beer festival from May 2nd now in store. Some of the beers on offer are unexceptional but 4.8% and 4.4% pales from respectively from Oakham and Vocation are highly drinkable. The price? £1.29 a can.
Meanwhile not to be outdone Waitrose are selling a mixed case of 6 bottles of the latest Fullers and Friends release for £10.
This is good news if you like good beer and are on a limited income. It may be less good news for brewers looking to make some return to pay wages and invest in the future of their business
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